🌋 Mount Etna – an active volcano in Sicily and a trek across lava
We spent the night at Rifugio Sapienza, at an altitude where even the air smells like sulfur and adventure.
But before we went to sleep, we headed out to watch the sunset, which turned the lava into gold. The wind danced with the ash, and the clouds shaped themselves like craters – as if the mountain wanted to remind us who’s in charge.
For a moment, everything went quiet. Only the warm glow of the sky and the scent of smoke hinted that something was still alive beneath us.





The sun slowly dropped lower, as if it too wanted a peek into the crater before going to sleep.
The wind picked up so much that we had to hold onto our jackets and our hair at the same time, and still no one wanted to leave. Etna said “goodnight” in its own way – loud, beautiful, and powerful 🌋💨
In the morning – helmet, jacket, a quick espresso, and we’re off. First by cable car, then by off-road buses, all the way to where civilization ends. Beyond that, there’s only a path of ash and lava, redrawn every time Etna decides to remind everyone of its power.





The wind tugs at our jackets, and our guide Enrico from Etna Guide – smiling, chatty, and absolutely indestructible – says we’re lucky today. The weather is perfect, the visibility is a dream, and Etna is “breathing.”
– Is it just steam, or already hell?
– Hell has fewer tourists 😎
And yet everyone wants to come here – apparently the devil has better marketing 😂
And no permit needed, just a guide for €130 per person 🔥
We stand at over 2,500 meters, and there are still a solid 8.7 km of hiking ahead of us. With every step, I feel more and more that the ground is alive – literally.
From deep inside the crater rises a hot, biting smell of sulfur. One deeper breath and… coughing, laughter, and a few unfiltered words, which Enrico sums up with a short: “Benvenuti sull’Etna!” 😄
At that point, I wasn’t sure if it was fog, steam, or Etna simply testing my endurance.
Conclusion: I survived, but my lungs filed a complaint 😅🌋
Guide Enrico called it “gentle sulfur fumes” — I’d call it an exam in breathing without air 😂
But the sight of steam rising from the craters? Absolutely worth every cough 💨🔥
Turn the sound on 😉🎧
🔎 Facts that hit differently
🌋 Mount Etna is growing – literally! Each eruption adds a few centimeters. Today it’s around 3,357 meters above sea level, but it can change height several times a year 😮
🔥 It’s the most active volcano in Europe – eruptions happen on average every 2–3 months, and smaller emissions… pretty much daily.
🕳️ More than 400 craters lie on its slopes – some are the result of side eruptions that can tear apart a section of the mountain and create a new “mini Etna.”
🌍 The volcano sits right between two tectonic plates – the African and the Eurasian. That’s why it never stops “working.”
🚐 The road to the top is never fixed – the asphalt ends at Rifugio Sapienza, and beyond that, each new lava flow draws a fresh route.
💁♀️ Locals joke that Etna is “she” – because she changes her mind, her mood, and even the direction of the wind whenever she feels like it 😅
❤️🔥 And if you look down at her crater at sunset, you’ll see… a red heart – a shape that appears only for a few minutes each year.





🌱 Life on lava
💚 The first plants to appear after an eruption are lava pioneers – resistant to heat and drought, they take root in ash before anything else can. 🌸 What looks like burnt ground isn’t dead at all – the lava hides minerals that feed new life. It takes just a few years for moss to appear, followed by flowers and grasses. 🪨 Some of these “green survivors” are Etna endemics, species that grow nowhere else in the world. 🌺 And when they bloom – the entire black mountain looks like someone scattered nature’s confetti across it. 🐞 And ladybugs? They’re everywhere! Even at over 2,500 meters above sea level, they stroll across the lava like it’s a spring garden – tiny red dots of life on black earth.





Every step feels like walking down moving gravel – soft, loose, and completely unpredictable. Your feet sink ankle-deep, your shoes disappear into black lava, and every descent ends in laughter and a cloud of dust.
🔥 I’d heard so much about Etna, but I didn’t expect it to look this spectacular up close – raw, powerful, and full of life where nothing should grow.
And if someone says Etna is asleep – they’ve probably never heard her breathe 😎
Etna wasn’t the end of this journey, just one of its strongest moments.
Sicily has so much more contrast in it – from fire to blue, from raw intensity to complete calm.
If you want to see the other side of this island, check out this post too
👉 → Onward: Sicily – lava and blue 🌋🌊

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